- CAPTAIN'S LOG / Asia
- 3 December 2019
KNOWN AS THE ISLAND OF THE GODS, Bali is the most famous of all Indonesia’s 17,600 islands. This is the fun capital of South-East Asia, catering to the complete spectrum of visitors with high-end villas and hotels to dance-on-the-table, late-night joints.
Bali’s dramatically beautiful coastline has it all for a visiting yacht, from surf breaks and coral reefs to clifftop temples and sugar-white beaches. The upscale dining and spa offering is legendary, while the party scene along the coast has a buzzing, fun-loving vibe all its own. In the lush interior, steeply terraced rice paddies glow an almost electric green, framed by a landscape of gently puffing volcanoes and equatorial rainforests, where visitors white-water raft down jungle rivers and hike to hidden waterfalls.
After I travelled the world as a superyacht captain, Bali’s ethereal allure drew me to settle down. This welcoming island still provides new experiences, along with growth in the marine tourism industry that provides for my family.
Sitting only eight degrees south of the equator, Bali is not subject to tropical revolving storms. There are two seasons, but average daily temperatures vary little, ranging from 28–33°C all year round. Rain and thunderstorms can occur at any time of year. At times, rainy and windy conditions are caused by storms off north-west Australia.
The dry season has less humidity and runs from May to September, with prevailing southeasterly winds ranging from light and variable up to force 4 (16–18 knots). The wet season is more humid (up to 80 percent humidity at times) and runs from November to March. Prevailing winds are northwesterly, rarely getting above force 3 (12 knots).
Mount Agung on Bali’s north-east side is an active volcano that spewed some ash clouds and minor lava spurts in the first half of 2018, causing some disruption to air travel and an exclusion zone around the volcano.
Visiting Indonesia by yacht used to be very challenging, but three Presidential Regulations have eased the process somewhat and opened up this vast cruising destination for private-use yachts.
A cruising permit and temporary import permit are now applied for online, and a simple customs inspection at the entry port is the only extra to the normal CIQP entry process. A Green Book and SPB sailing permit are issued at the entry port, following which a foreign-flagged yacht is theoretically able to cruise freely without further domestic clearances for the duration of the temporary import. Customs can grant up to three years temporary import for any one visit.
Foreign yachts are forbidden from any form of commercial activity within Indonesian waters, including chartering or sale of vessel or parts thereof, and the penalties are severe.
All yachties, whether crew or guest, are treated as tourists for immigration purposes and various visas apply according to the length of stay: most use the 30-day free Visa-on-Arrival. Visitors can enter and exit by yacht or airplane and yacht crew do not sign on/off as commercial ship crew must. Private jets are welcome at Bali International Airport and VIP arrival/departure is commonplace.
Yachts can moor in the main port of Benoa on commercial docks, or at the Bali Marina if less than 30 metres LOA. Benoa safe water mark is at S8°45’14″E115°14’55”.
The newly opened Sanur Bay facility of the Royal Bali Yacht Club (RBYC) incorporates the Big Boat Quay, which has moved from Benoa port. The RBYC has plans for expansion. Currently, yachts up to 90 metres can moor stern-to, using bow anchors and stern lines onto mooring blocks with shore access via secure pontoons. Basin depths are a minimum seven metres at MLWS.
Full international clearances can be done at all of the above, and good quality, inexpensive fuel can be bunkered by truck or barge. Big Boat Quay at RBYC has the first legal marine fuel station in Bali.
All kinds of provisions can be catered for in Bali with abundant fresh local fruit, vegetables and spices available – even locally-made sausages and cheeses. With so many high-end hotels and resident expats, a large range of items is imported as standard. The flowers available on the island are a dream.
There’s a great deal for guests and crew to do in Bali, including scuba diving, surfing, kite-surfing, cultural tours, hiking, restaurants, spas, bars and clubs. We recently had guests join the yacht in Bali and spend their entire 10-day vacation based on the barbecue dock; they did shore excursions, went shopping for furniture, had spa days, and dined out every night.
There are some reliable yacht agents operating in Bali, so both the planning and execution of guest cruises have become easier for captains, despite being so far from the usual yachting haunts.
For most visiting yacht captains, Bali is the main hub location at which to prepare for guest trips to the NTB (Nusa Tenggara Barat) and NTT (Nusa Tenggara Timor) islands in the middle section of Indonesia, including Komodo.
The range of services from fuel to provisions is comparable to almost any Western port.
The yacht can be supported via Bali for all requests arising during extended island cruising due to Indonesia’s comprehensive airport network and great agency support.
With the three-year temp import period now becoming standard, more foreign yachts are basing in Bali long-term.
Bali’s culture and religion are particularly special and witnessing a ceremonial procession is often the highlight of a visit. Be aware that it is considered rude throughout Indonesia to touch a person’s head, so ruffling a child’s hair is to be avoided.
In general, the Balinese are very friendly, considerate and tolerant. Security efforts are visible and now such a part of daily routine that visitors need only take normal precautions such as not leaving mobile phones on exposed tables or flashing cash around.
Driving is chaotic here, so hiring a car and driver is the norm, and this only costs around US$15 more per day more than self-drive hire cars.
During the thirteen years I have been supporting foreign superyacht visits, we have also been involved with local charity work. We helped inspire the creation of Taman Bacaan Pelangi (Rainbow Reading Gardens), which supplies books to remote coastal communities via yachts and sets up small after-school libraries.
In Bali, we support the efforts of Bali Street Kids Orphanage (YKPA), which enables street kids to have a childhood, education and future. We also assist Solemen in its campaigns to ease the suffering of Balinese people with various medical and financial afflictions.