- CAPTAIN'S LOG / The Americas
- 1 August 2020
ALONG THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE, snowy peaks rise above deep, cold fjords, polar bears amble across vast expanses of ice, and glaciers bigger than skyscrapers calve into the sea under the eerie midnight sun.
We were awed by its beauty and keenly aware of the privilege bestowed upon us to be able to see this magical area. Knowing that, we felt we had a responsibility to our surroundings, its people and its animals.
I can say with absolute certainty that our trip into the Northwest Passage will always remain at the top of the favourite-cruise list of everyone on board.
My first piece of advice would be to engage a professional expedition company to work with. We selected EYOS Expeditions, and they far exceeded our expectations. Tim Soper, their team leader, ensured that everyone integrated perfectly, and the EYOS team worked tirelessly, sharing knowledge, keeping guests safe and being upbeat and fun.
One member of their team, Glenn Williams, had lived in the Arctic for 15 years and spoke local dialects and understood customs. Others, including Justin Hofman and Flip Nicklin, were world-class photographers and cinematographers with years of experience with National Geographic. Their inclusion on our expedition made a world of difference to the quality of the experience for everyone.
As you can imagine, undertaking a cruise in the high Arctic requires months of planning and preparation, and we began the process six months before departure. Members of the crew renewed their First Aid and CPR certification, while some completed more advanced First Aid and cold weather survival training.
I completed a very useful Ice Navigation Course that is designed to further develop ice piloting skills and build better awareness of the regulations and resources in the area. It’s necessary to use dry suits for scuba diving in the Arctic, so the team carried out training specific to the dry suit’s use and maintenance. Naturally, we did many extra drills with immersion suits, gaining complete confidence in our abilities to function in the extreme temperatures we expected to encounter.
Next was to collect a larger inventory of spare parts, equipment and guests’ items that would ensure a safe and successful journey. There were some very particular things to consider, for instance, most of our cruising was above the 70th parallel so the magnetic compass proved entertaining but useless. We invested in a second gyrocompass as a contingency to our main one. We also installed an Iridium Pilot and purchased two Iridium hand-held sat phones.
Running a vessel regularly engaged in scientific projects, we felt very strongly about keeping our impact on the environment low. Rubbish does not break down in the Arctic.
We didn’t want to discharge any garbage ashore, so instead, we constructed a manual compactor and carried all 54 days’ worth of trash back to the USA for proper disposal. The deck crew used the compacter as a chance to get a bit of a workout.
The crew also organised high-quality reusable thermal bottles for the guests with the journey map emblazoned on them. The guests loved them and they worked equally well for cold and hot drinks.
Below is a list of some additional equipment we took especially for the journey and the reason we did so.
We saw 92 polar bears during our cruise but never had any problems, even with the curious ones that swam out near us.
We departed from St Johns in Canada up to Greenland, and then west into the Northwest Passage on a 5,500-nautical-mile journey. The entrance paperwork in Canada and Greenland was easy and painless. It was completed mostly electronically with advance notice and with the help of EYOS and our ship’s agent.
There are a few locations in the high Arctic that require special permits. EYOS submitted the paperwork for us and we were issued these permits for specific periods. It is a requirement to check in regularly with the authorities when in their sovereign waters.
Greenland required reports to GREENPOS every six hours when cruising, while Canada’s NORDREG requests you report once a day at 1600. It is a simple process mostly done over the internet – or in the case of no communications, via phone or radio. They want to know the conditions, what the weather and ice are like and direct you to any emergencies.
Our VSAT was operational most of the time. Considering we spent significant time above the 70th parallel – and as high as 76°N – that was pleasantly surprising. When inside some of the fjords the height of the hills can block the VSAT, which has a very low look angle. Occasionally, we’d reposition in order to reacquire the satellites.
There is very little cell service and what we found was only in the few villages.
As we were not steaming at full speed but creeping along, our fuel consumption was pretty low in terms of the main engines. The generators were going to be constantly under normal load so we took on fuel at the dock in Sisimiut in Greenland, as well as in Resolute, where the fuel provider fashioned a dock with floating pontoons. On both occasions, the process was easy and the fuel prices and quality good.
Watermaker production was reduced by up to 50 percent but it wasn’t a problem keeping up with demand. We carried heat tape to install on any through-hull fittings in case they showed signs of freezing, and fabricated an enclosure for the aft deck, making it warm and more user-friendly. We also had heaters and a supply of wood for the fireplace.
While we brought frozen provisions along as back up, we were able to fly in fresh produce as well as source some locally. Resolute, Pond Inlet, Arctic Bay and Cambridge Bay were serviced by aircraft and therefore the most logical places to take on any fresh produce. We were considerate not to clean out the local co-ops and ensured enough was left for the local population.
Rotating guests in and out wasn’t problematic. Arctic Bay, Resolute and Pond Inlet worked well, with scheduled air services and charters available to disembark and embark guests. These small settlements have airstrips that connect this area to Yellowknife on mainland Canada and Iqaluit on Baffin Island where larger jets can make the flights south.
The weather in the Northwest Passage is extremely variable. We didn’t use a weather routing service but instead relied on the Canadian Ice Service, NOAA, Ocean Weather, Windyty, Passage Weather and other internet-based weather services, plus our own observations and data to make predictions.
In 54 days of cruising, we were very lucky to have only four rather inclement days, one of which was a full gale in the Davis Strait. Obviously it was fairly cold, but the days were very long and often bright. It never really got dark, and we encountered little fog. We constantly had people on watch for ice and wildlife so if something spectacular cropped up at 2 am, we roused those interested and headed off on an adventure.
In terms of managing the ice, Archimedes is not Ice Class, but she is ice-strengthened with a thicker plate and more scantlings forward. When she was built, the owner and design team made the conscious decision to reinforce the forward hull so as not to be too limited.
The best advice I can give is to go slowly – very slowly. Think far ahead, and use the opportunities when the water is clear and the weather is cooperative to make your moves.
We rarely anchored. If the wind changed and the ice moved, it would move the yacht but not the anchor, possibly causing you to lose your anchor or be pushed ashore.
Use drones and the crew to look ahead for ice and proceed, slowly pushing it aside. We sometimes nosed up to large floes, using them as a battering ram to push aside ice.
And, of course, never, ever, ever back up! The weakest and most vulnerable part of the vessel is the stern area with a flat section – rudders, props etc – and it doesn’t take much ice resistance to cause serious damage.
At Beachy Island, you will find the graves of members of the Franklin expedition (although not Franklin himself ), and we anchored there to pay respect to the adventurers who went before.
Devon Island was an outstanding destination. Of the 92 polar bears we saw, the majority was on the bays of Devon Island or the ice floes in Lancaster Sound. Within or near Croker Bay, we were also fortunate to spot narwhals, orcas, walruses, seals, whales and hares, whereas other visitors have reported not seeing anything. Devon Island stands at the crossroads where you can choose to go north, south, east or west and is a must-do.
For those interested in seeing how icebergs are created, in Greenland you can see great sections of ice fall from the glaciers several times per hour. Some sections are literally the size of huge buildings, and some are even larger than the Empire State Building, creating enormous dangerous waves that roll miles down the fjords. It is amazing to be eyewitnesses to the strength and fragility of this area.
Throughout our Arctic travels it was easy to see where the glaciers have been receding. We were able to compare photos from our earlier trips to validate this.
It goes without saying that one reason to cruise the Northwest Passage is the wildlife. It is their home and we were merely visitors passing through. While always respecting the 50-metre exclusion zone, we were able to have amazing animal interactions. When snorkelling, the clarity of the water meant we could occasionally see whales, seals and fish – even at 50 metres.
In our 54-day, 5,500-nautical-mile journey, we only came across a handful of boats and no other large yachts. The population of this area of the Arctic is 2,500 people, mostly of Inuit heritage. They were fascinating and welcoming people, yet it is always advisable to exhibit care and attention to other cultures.
There isn’t much of an economy in the region so fostering trade is wonderful – as long as it doesn’t clear out their produce or equipment, or cause unnecessary stress on the local environment or animal populations. This includes never attempting to purchase or trade for narwhal or walrus tusks, polar bear claws or skins etc. However, there is occasionally some fantastic local art to be found.
As is the standard rule on our yacht, we had collected tools, clothing, school and medical supplies to offer to the Arctic communities we visited. It is very important not to offer alcohol. That is because many of the remote communities are dry or self-managed with consumption budgets and stipulations by elders. Also, as a courtesy, we always asked whenever we wanted to photograph someone, and everyone was happy to have their photo taken.
While we prepared to work our way out of the Northwest Passage, we were lucky enough to take on a team of photographers and videographers from SeaLegacy, led by Paul Nicklen and Cristina Mittermeier. This deeply committed and adventurous conservation group works tirelessly to promote healthier oceans through education, creating stunning, powerful imagery to get their message across.
To be able to share the final leg with this remarkable group of conservationists was such a powerful experience that words fail me.
We were all so touched by our journey. Our expedition may have been a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many, but it left an impression that will last forever.
Incomparable Antarctica