- CAPTAIN'S LOG / Pacific Ocean
- 28 November 2019
The Land of Eternal Spring
In New Caledonia, UNESCO-listed lagoons dotted with tropical islands are encircled by the world’s second-largest barrier reef, creating a diving and snorkelling paradise. Yet that’s not all that makes New Caledonia special …
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‘DISCOVERED’ BY CAPTAIN COOK and now a French territory, with its cafes and boutiques the capital Noumea offers a distinctly European flavour backed by a landscape of jungle and waterfalls and traditional villages. New Caledonia is a Pacific jewel in a blue-green sea.
New Caledonia has always been an attractive destination for yachts cruising in the Pacific, either for a short refuelling stopover or a longer stay. However, the area is still relatively untapped by larger yachts. The government has recently approved funding for large yacht mooring improvements and legislative changes are underway to encourage private and charter yachts.
M/Y Masteka 2 was granted the first charter licence for a foreign-flagged vessel in 2017, and in her second year chartering, we hope to show the world what New Caledonia has to offer and bring more yachts to the region.
Described as the Land of Eternal Spring, the New Caledonian climate offers cruising potential all year round with average temperatures between 22–28 degrees Celsius.
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What dictates the cruising season is the very real threat of cyclones from November to March, which is a shame as that time of the year can offer some of the best conditions for cruising.
Compared to her Pacific Island neighbours such as Fiji and Tahiti, the infrastructure to support large yachts is limited but improving. In saying that, you can still get things done here at the standard required, but the pool of expertise is very small. These individuals are in high demand, and their invoices reflect this. For major projects, New Zealand, Australia and even Asia are still the preferred options. Good-quality bunkering is available here by truck at the commercial wharves but not at the marinas.
Marinas
Though Noumea has several cruising yacht marinas, Port de Sud is currently the only large yacht marina in the region, accommodating up to a 55-metre yacht with a five-metre draft. This is a good, well-located marina but always busy, so booking well in advance is essential.
At 220V/64 amps, the power availability has its limitations in a full marina, although they’re working on improving this. With more than three big yachts on the grid, the need for running generators during the day is common.
Overflow and larger yachts can use the commercial quay in town at Main Quay.
Port Moselle is a lovely marina but not suitable for larger yachts, only accepting one 30-metre yacht on a T-head. The Scientific Quay in Port Moselle can be used for fuelling and possible short-term berthing, but the wharf is quite rough and commercial. That combined with the fact that entering the port is very tight and tricky, I would not recommend anything bigger than a 40-metre vessel using that facility.
In exciting news, the local government has recently approved funding to update the Main Quay by installing facilities for stern-to mooring to accommodate 50-plus-metre yachts, which will also include adequate power, fuelling facilities and security gates. Hopefully, this should be operational by the 2019 season.
Provisioning
For produce and shopping, Noumea is excellent. European-style cafes, bars, clubs and restaurants are a delight and offer a taste of Europe in the Pacific. Most products any yacht would need are available, but not unlimited.
Depending on the time of year, you may still have to order high-end produce for guests from Australia and New Zealand. Even so, products from Australia and New Zealand are plentiful. Like at any port, local knowledge is the key to success.
Agents and clearance
The two agents in Noumea – Noumea Yacht Services and Noumea Ocean – are both excellent in their own right. I have used Noumea Yacht Services for the last three years and their help in everything from clearance to cruising advice has been invaluable.
Using an agent is not obligatory but highly recommended. Dealing with officials, paperwork and the language can be a challenge and has tripped up some yachts in the past. They can be very particular with the rules (which can change from season to season), and the fines can be harsh.
Larger yachts may need a pilot, which must be booked well in advance. Get in contact with the agent early and they will send you the necessary paperwork and the current rules and conditions. Note that the authorities shut down from midday Friday to Monday morning, so if you want to arrive and clear in for the weekend, be sure to be docked and secure by 9 am Friday.
Most nationalities can arrive and have their visas issued on clearing in, but always check with the agent well in advance. South African passports are the only visa I’ve had trouble with, as they need it prior to arrival and New Caledonia does not recognise the Schengen visa scheme despite being a French territory.
Activities
New Caledonia has a lot to offer for guests and crew, from high-end shopping and bars to bushwalking, horse-riding and nature tours. There’s some world-class windsurfing and kiteboarding to be had, with the world championships for both hosted in Noumea. There are even some great surf breaks in the passes. As for the UNESCO World Heritage-listed lagoon, it offers some fantastic diving, fishing and cruising opportunities both near and far from Noumea.
When staying for longer periods there is plenty to keep the crew entertained, including modern gyms and sporting facilities, but be warned: Noumea is an expensive port, even by European standards.
Security
When it comes to security, New Caledonia is like any other place and has its areas to be avoided. The agents will update you, but some areas of the town centre should be avoided at night and some areas of the island have limited access, controlled by the local tribes. These tribes value their privacy, and you will need permission to visit.
Navigation
Navigating in New Caledonia is good but, like anywhere in the Pacific, pay due respect to reef cruising. Charts of the area, be it BA, AUS or the local official marine charts, are quite accurate but using caution in the limited or unsurveyed areas is essential. When cruising these areas, you should limit it to the usual 8 am to 4 pm cruising hours for safe light.
The main southern entrances through the reef at positions such as Passe de Dumbea, Passe de Boulari and Canal de la Havannah are well charted and marked, and are used by larger commercial traffic.
Cruising from Noumea
Close to Noumea you’ll find numerous islands with resorts, great diving and sightseeing. A must-see is Amedee Island, a nature reserve with fantastic reef snorkelling and an abundance of turtles, reef sharks and sea snakes. You can also visit the Amedee Lighthouse, which at 56 metres is one of the tallest lighthouses in the world.
The lagoon, in particular the southern region, offers fantastic cruising opportunities further afield. Exploring the famous Isle of Pines in the south-east is a must, and the bays of Kute and Kanumera offer great anchorage in all but south-westerly winds and swell. In high season the bays can be very busy, which can pose a challenge to your swing circle.
The Bay of Prony
The Bay of Prony on the southern tip of the mainland is another great spot. Only four hours’ cruising from Noumea, this area offers a complete change in environment and scenery, offering some great dives, waterfalls and hot springs. The red earth creates a completely different landscape to the rest of the country and is as dramatic as it is beautiful. The surrounding hills are mined for nickel and at night there is an ever-present loom of light from the several mines in the area. For anchoring, there is plenty of shelter and good holding, with the mines being seen but not heard.
The Five Islands
My personal favourites are the islands of the southern lagoon including the Five Islands, which offer a feeling of seclusion and freedom that is so hard to find today. White sandy beaches, spectacular reef formations and crystal-clear waters offer endless diving, snorkelling and fishing.
When planning, be aware that not all these islands are accessible by tender. Most are only accessible on a high tide and only a few have all-tide access, so you’ll need to speak with your agents for local knowledge.
My top anchorages are Ilot Kouare (22 46.7S 166 47.9E); Ilot Uatio (22 42.6S 166 47.4E); Recefe Tote (22 38.5S 166 47.2E); and Ilot Mato (22 33.6S 166 47.5E). All offer good holding and decent shelter from the ever-present trades.
Recife Tote is a circular reef that you can anchor in; it is magnificent and my personal favourite of them all – but watch the weather, which can come in quick and hard in the region. If you have to run, the closest sheltered anchorage is the west coast of Isle Ouen in the Baie Ue (22 25.7S 166 46.8E), which has a beauty of its own and is a great anchorage regardless of the weather.
There is also enormous cruising potential in the northern half of the Islands and the Loyalty Islands to the east. In fact, this log only scratches the surface of this little gem in the Pacific. New Caledonia offers so much potential for any yacht cruising the western Pacific; I would recommend it as part of any captain’s itinerary.
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