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  • CAPTAIN'S LOG / Pacific Ocean
  • 13 September 2021
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The adventure that is GSR

Fleet Captain Mike Gregory reveals what you need to know about the journey of a lifetime – the Great Southern Route.

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Written by Fleet Captain Mike Gregory

M/Y Dragonfly, Butterfly and Firefly

SETTING OFF ON the Great Southern Route is a magnificent adventure. Departing the traditional cruising grounds for the path less travelled offers rewards beyond counting as you navigate areas of the South Pacific last charted by Captain Cook, cruise past icebergs and polar bears in the Northwest Passage, and encounter orangutans and pygmy elephants in wild Borneo.

Yet for all the extraordinary, life-changing experiences on offer, venturing off the beaten track has its fair share of challenges and frustrations to challenge the yacht captain and crew alike.

I am fleet captain for motor yachts Dragonfly, Butterfly, and Firefly, and have been captain of 73-metre M/Y Dragonfly, operating in the Pacific and Indonesia since 2014.

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Although I originally trained in the British merchant fleet, I transitioned to the yachting industry after five years and have been fortunate to have a slightly alternate career path in that I’ve spent less than 20 percent of my 12-year yachting career in the Meditteranean and the Caribbean.

During my time in the Pacific, we have visited nearly all the island chains and have spent a considerable amount of time beating the path less trodden. With a fantastic team supporting our operations, it was really the information offered in The Great Southern Route Superyacht Cruising Guide that inspired the confidence we needed to make it all happen.

When I think back to why I started at sea, I reflect heavily on the tales of my grandfather, a British merchant seaman, and the various college lecturers who further inspired tales of far-flung travels, adventure and general mischief.

Let’s face it, those days are almost gone … or are they?

Yes, seagoing adventures in the commercial sector are over, but this is yachting, the final frontier of seagoing fun and adventure. So, why then, is over 90 percent of the industry stuck in the Med and Caribbean? The time that we have spent in the Pacific has truly blown all of us away and far exceeded even the imagination of that six-year-old lad sat on his grandfather’s lap in East London.

I consider it a significant privilege to be asked to contribute to this publication and write about some of the places we have visited and enjoyed immensely; the Captains’ Logs in this guide for Vanuatu, the Marshall Islands and Indonesia are all contributions from Dragonfly.

I’m also grateful for the opportunity to address you as owners, captains and industry professionals. Unfortunately, in doing so, I will have to assume some of your questions and preconceptions of these areas in order to offer up relevant information and dispel some of the myths and misunderstandings about visiting the region on a yacht.

Following are some answers to some of the questions you may have. Please understand I have not contributed to this article for any other reason than to try and support those who wish to visit the region, in the same way that this publication has assisted me.

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Why is this publication so important?

Even with the enormous amount of information available online for cruising yachts and those of us interested in travelling off the beaten track, there is no comparable resource that contains so much information relevant to this region, aimed solely at making the superyacht experience more accessible, economic, fun and safe.

Why consider cruising the South Pacific, Indian Ocean and beyond?

Cruising this region is perhaps not for everyone, and I certainly don’t intend to invoke any negativity on any other region of the world. I do, however, believe that the majority of owners, captains and crew get involved in this industry to experience the wonders of adventure, wake up somewhere new and exotic every day and, at times, escape the hustle of the First World.

The fact is that as the world gets smaller and the industry bigger, the opportunities to experience that pristine anchorage in privacy are becoming more elusive.

The regions covered in the fourth edition of The Great Southern Route all offer that exclusivity and seclusion in abundance. Most of the hurdles standing in the way of cruising in remote regions have been removed and the availability of services, support and supplies is far more developed than you might believe.

The culture, incredible landscapes, people and water sport opportunities in these regions are certainly my personal reasons for loving this region. I genuinely enjoy my time in the area and remain excited for every trip and next discovery.

What support is available in these remote regions?

It’s been ten years since I first visited the Asia–Pacific region, and that period has seen an incredible development of the support network available to yachts. The agencies, maintenance and berthing options continue to grow, and the level of professionalism and commitment to the visitors is absolutely without question some of the best we have experienced globally.

The maintenance and refit facilities in Australia and New Zealand are first class, and the friendly can-do attitude is very welcome. Visiting yacht numbers in the Pacific region continue to grow, and the recent easing of charter restrictions in many cruising grounds will undoubtedly continue to attract more yacht traffic.

What are the best things about the region?

The opportunity to experience that sense of adventure, never knowing what you might discover around the next headland; seeing that look on the owner’s or guest’s face when they experience something for the very first time. All of this happens multiple times in just one trip.

What are the challenges of visiting the region?

I can only speak from the perspective of a captain operating in this area. For me, there are a couple of challenges that instantly come to mind when comparing cruising here with the more frequented regions of the world – all of which can be managed.

    • The chart data and availability of trustworthy navigational information. You may laugh, but we have visited anchorages and transited areas where the previous chart sounding was offered by Captain James Cook. Now, I’m sure Captain James was handy with a lead-line but frankly, this can be a real challenge. The need for an expert navigation team, some excellent kit and a significant measure of patience will quickly transform any bridge team into an expert reef-dodging team. This remains a constant concern for those of us operating in the more remote regions, however, the data-sharing between vessels has become a real asset and most good agents are supplying incoming yachts with the latest data.
    • Crewing challenges. You’ll spend a lot of time a long way from the comforts of the First World, and it’s well worth noting that the team may end up in regions that offer little in the way of escape from the vessel and their crewmates. Although this is one of the very things we credit for the success of our crew longevity and team spirit, it is not for everyone. However, the experiences, discovery and adventure that you will share with your team and clients will never be forgotten. The strong bond and team spirit between a successful crew is a wonderful thing to be a part of.
    • Finding a Mangusta wake to fill up your toy garage or swamp the swim platform! I genuinely haven’t found one in six years – long may it continue!

I hope to see you here soon!

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