Cruising highlights

Only four of the 18 islands are inhabited by people: Isabela, Santa Cruz, Floreana and San Cristobal. The rest of the islands are in pristine condition and carefully managed by the Galápagos National Park.

Our adventure began in Punta Pitt, San Cristobal Island. Contours of barren, wind-eroded peaks surrounded us; a volcanic wasteland sparsely vegetated with saltbush and spiny shrubs. The predominantly black surface is contrasted by lush carpets of Vesuvius in a startling fire engine red.

Otherworldly, yet strikingly beautiful, this harsh landscape is heavily populated by blue-footed booby birds. These fluffy little babies with white webbed feet grow into awkward, tufted adolescents with aqua-coloured feet so bright it is as if they have been dipped in paint. The adults’ feet are a deep, rich blue, and their ungainly foot-slapping waddle and piercing eyes make for an entertaining sight.

Stepping from our boat onto the black rock shelf of Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz Island is like stepping onto another planet, its sharp surface dotted with the paddle-like leaves of the opuntia cactus.

Walking gingerly along this prickly, strange trail, we are led to a completely contrasting landscape. With powdery white sand that’s silky soft underfoot, this surf beach is bizarrely populated with hundreds of prehistoric-looking marine iguanas. Physically imposing with their shedding skins and long spikes, they also spit – regularly and unpleasantly. To be more precise, they filter out the excess salt from the seawater by sneezing it out through their blunt, spiny snouts. It’s not pretty. Though all signs point to a creature best avoided, it is their very weirdness that makes them completely enthralling.

Situated off the northeast coast of San Cristobal are the half-submerged obelisks of Kicker Rock. Thousands of years of erosion have formed a channel between the two rock formations, creating the perfect habitat for sea life including the awe-inspiring hammerhead shark.

In the cool and misty highlands of Santa lives one of the oldest creatures in the world; the iconic Galápagos tortoise. These lumbering creatures grow up to five feet long, weigh over 500 pounds, and can live for over 150 years, making them the world’s longest-living vertebrates. It is joked that the only way to be bitten by this creature is to place your hand within its open jaws and wait patiently.

We are reminded to respect these docile, gentle animals by observing the two-metre rule that applies to most creatures within the Galápagos. Sudden movements or getting too close causes these shy giants to withdraw into their carapaces and make a hissing sound as air is expelled from their lungs.

Yachting logistics

Due to the fragile ecosystem of the Galápagos archipelago and its priceless natural resources, the Ecuadorian government heavily regulates the tourist industry. Upon entering its waters, yachts must proceed directly to one of the two official ports of entry: Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz, or Puerto Baquerizo in San Cristobal.

All yacht arrivals are subject to a Pre-Medical Assessment and an Environmental Risk Assessment, involving a hull inspection by a diver. Officials from the Galápagos National Park, the Ministry of Environment, the Harbour Master, and a doctor will most likely come aboard. In some cases, the Navy will also want to inspect the yacht, primarily to check for guns and contraband.

As much of the archipelago is national park, there are only one or two boats allowed in a particular port or point of disembarkation at a time, and it is not permitted to anchor anywhere but in an official port. There are very few areas within the Galápagos National Park that allow private yachts to visit, and these require a strict itinerary, the presence of a naturalist park guide on board at all times, and a hefty fee.

Any stays beyond twenty days or cruising between different ports will require an Autograph or cruising permit. Everything takes time to process in Ecuador, so allow 6–8 weeks for your agent to organise permits prior to your arrival. The authorities have a quota for yachts of between four and six per month, and if you have a large crew or are suspected of planning to charter within the national park, there is a chance your application will be rejected.

Formalities in the Galápagos can change on a daily basis, and permits to access the different islands and waterways come at a premium.

Once you have paid the tariffs for lights, buoys and anchorage fees and completed immigration formalities, you will also be required to cover zarpes (clearances) when transiting between each island. The overtime fees are almost double the standard fees, so make sure to request that your agent completes clearance during office hours.

Sailboats are now subjected to a new tax on top of current fees, known as a Vessels Control Pass, to be paid in cash on arrival. Overcharging yachties and not informing them of the need for zarpes seem to be the most common complaints regarding agents, so research and choose carefully.

Some agents offer a twelve-hour free stay within Galápagos waters to purchase food, water and fuel. However, be aware that fuel can take up to four days to receive the necessary dispatch order, and that your vessel will attract entrance and exit fees on the ports. You may find yourself stuck without the correct paperwork and exorbitant fees. To add to your trouble, it is illegal for foreigners to buy fuel at the Ecuadorian subsidised price, so expect to be charged approximately double the local price.