- DESTINATIONS / Australia
- 6 April 2021
NEVER HAS THERE BEEN a more opportune moment to discover the ancient forests, undulating highlands and pure coastal waters of tucked-away Tasmania.
In the past decade, since the acclaimed Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) opened in Hobart, Australia’s southernmost state has flourished. Forward-thinking locals and intrepid mainlanders have fuelled the island’s food scene and cultural life, while ambitious tourism operators have designed world-class accommodation and established access to some of the world’s most wildly beautiful landscapes.
For those with the knowledge and the means, it’s now possible to hover above Tasmania’s mythic mountain ranges in a helicopter no larger than a sports car; wade into secret streams, rod in hand, to fish for trout; and view some of most significant contemporary art on the planet – all in complete privacy.
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Travellers have more options than ever before. Yet Tassie remains – at least for now – relatively free of international visitors. Most importantly, those who live and work on the island are uniformly committed to preserving Tasmania’s low-volume, high-value tourism model.
“The great thing about Tassie is that it hasn’t been spoiled,” says Kim Dudson, founder of award-winning tour company Bespoke Tasmania. “It has remarkable natural beauty, from the coast through to the mountains. It has enchanting wildlife.
And then it has this extraordinary colonial heritage: beautiful buildings as well as historic gardens and rural landscapes.”
Dudson, a mainlander, remembers being captivated by Tasmania’s natural beauty and colonial and maritime heritage when she first visited some two decades ago. In 2014, she decided to relocate permanently.
“I’ve lived all over the world, but when I arrived in Tasmania, I discovered a place that, to me, felt truly special.”
“I was inspired to found Bespoke Tasmania tours because I wanted to share the island’s experiences with a fortunate few from a highly informed local’s perspective.”
She believes Tassie’s coordinates are the secret to its charm. “Tasmania has superb light, which has inspired many leading artists,” she says. “The light matches what you’d experience in the south of France – both locations are on similar latitudes and close to the ocean.”
She adds: “We also have some of the best food and wine in the world due to the slow, gentle ripening associated with our cool maritime climate and low latitude. Plus, the innovation and resourcefulness behind our small-scale craft producers is so uplifting.”
Dudson says visitors should set aside at least a week to explore the island properly. For those seeking an immersive and truly memorable trip, read on.
Tasmania’s pristine environment has given rise to a seriously impressive cool-climate wine industry. Now, when you visit one of Hobart’s top restaurants, you’re more likely to be offered a bottle of something Tasmanian than a mainland import. The island’s best drops are being made by small, independent operators who generally don’t have the resources or inclination to operate cellar doors, but Bespoke Tasmania can arrange private visits to these boutique wineries, which are clustered in the south-east corner of Tassie, not too far from Hobart.
Stoked by the island’s superlative produce and a steady stream of ambitious chefs relocating from the mainland, Tassie now boasts a fine-dining scene on par with Melbourne and Sydney.
In 2021, the buzz is all about Van Bone, an intimate dining room with views across the verdant fields of Marion Bay, south of Hobart. Helmed by Tasmanian-born chef Timothy Hardy, Van Bone offers a set menu of up to 14 courses, made with organic ingredients from the restaurant’s garden and nearby farms.
As Hardy says, “We forage, preserve and utilise the changing season to create a uniquely Tasmanian’ experience.”
Hardy’s experience includes working at renowned Margaret River winery restaurant Vasse Felix under Aaron Carr, hot Hobart eatery Garagiste, and the Michelin-starred Daniel Berlin Krog in Sweden.
To truly appreciate the diversity and drama of Tasmania’s landscapes, take to the skies in a privately chartered helicopter or plane. Flying from the main cities of Hobart and Launceston, it’s possible to reach World Heritage-listed wilderness in about 30 minutes, while outlying islands such as King Island and Bruny Island are also easily accessible.
There aren’t many airstrips in Tassie, so if you’re keen to stop along the way – perhaps on the shores of an ancient lake in the Central Highlands or beside a white-powder beach on the Freycinet Peninsula – you’ll need a helicopter. Hobart operator Par Avion employs the island’s most experienced pilots.
One destination that is best approached by air is high-altitude Lake St Clair in the centre of the island. It’s here you’ll find Pumphouse Point, a small waterfront hotel spread across several buildings that once comprised an old hydro-electric power station.
Since it opened in 2015, Pumphouse Point has gradually tweaked its no-frills formula, but it wasn’t until recently that the property debuted a true luxury accommodation option.
The Retreat is a villa hidden in thick forest a short distance from the main hotel. Book it for the impeccably comfortable beds, the absolute privacy and the kitchen laden with complimentary spirits, wine and craft beer – all Tasmanian, of course.
Tasmania’s walking trails are legendary – none more so than the 65-kilometre Overland Track, which begins on the shores of Lake St Clair and threads its way through an incredible diversity of terrain, from dense rainforest to forbidding tundra.
Although most walkers pitch tents in designated camping spots, those who travel with a guide from the Tasmanian Walking Company can access the operator’s eco-cabins, which are the only proper accommodation along the route. The company offers regularly scheduled, small group walks along the Overland Track. It’s also possible to organise a private walk and exclusive use of the cabins.
Perched on the side of Mount Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula you will find McHenry Distillery, a family business responsible for some of the island’s finest spirits, including eight varieties of gin.
The company’s latest endeavour is a distilling class, which provides a rare overview of the gin-making process and gives participants a chance to create their own bottles using high-grade native botanicals harvested from nearby bushland.
If making gin has whet your appetite, enjoy a flavour-matched lunch (with gin, of course), and a walk up the mountain to see where the distillery’s superb mineral water comes out of the sandstone mountain fields.
In the 160 years since European settlers introduced brown trout to Tasmania’s cold, clear waters, the species has become a dominant player in rivers and streams all over the island.
The abundance, size and vitality of Tasmanian trout makes fishing them a reliably entertaining experience for novices and veteran anglers alike.
There is no shortage of waterways to explore either, including many in wilderness areas where fishing is permitted for most of the year. For a singular experience, speak to an expert like Matt Stone at Trout Tales, who will take you far off the beaten track.
Barnbougle Dunes may be Tassie’s best-known golf course, but Cape Wickham Gold Links on King Island is preferred by those in the know, including the folks at Golf Australia magazine, who consistently declare it Tasmania’s top spot. The golf here is never less than thrilling, given the oceanfront setting and unpredictable weather conditions. Play is even better first thing in the morning as the sun rises over the mighty Bass Strait.
The only way to get onto the course at dawn is to book one of Cape Wickham’s 16 simple-yet-comfortable villas that overlook the water. Regular commercial flights connect King Island to Hobart and Launceston, although chartering a plane or helicopter and landing on the course’s dedicated airstrip is a superior option.