- CAPTAIN'S LOG / Indian Ocean
- 28 November 2019
FLOAT THROUGH AN ARCHIPELAGO of almost mythic beauty, measuring the passing of days by another dive with whale sharks and manta rays; another massage in a seafront pavilion; another dinner on deck by the moonlit sea. The Maldives is an escape from reality.
Arriving from the east or west, the approach to the bustling capital of Malé is extraordinary. As the economic centre of the Maldives, locals move to Malé from the outer islands for opportunities. In the middle of the Indian Ocean, a coral cay inundated with high-rise buildings feels utterly out of place. Fortunately, this level of industry and overpopulation only exists on Malé. Elsewhere, the Maldives are a true tropical paradise.
Of the 1,190 islands that make up the Maldives, only 198 are inhabited. The population of 444,000 is scattered throughout the country, with the greatest concentration of people living on Malé. Tourism is the main industry in the Maldives, with travel and tourism accounting for 39.6 percent of its GDP in 2017.
The cruising season in the Maldives is from November until May when the Indian Ocean north-east monsoon arrives.
The official religion of the Maldives is Islam, and only Muslims can hold Maldivian citizenship. In keeping with the Islamic faith, there is no alcohol available in the capital of Malé or on the airport island of Hulhumalé.
If visiting Malé for an excursion, it is best to observe Islamic traditions, covering up appropriately and observing Islamic values and traditions. Sharia law forms the basic law code of the Maldives; however, it not as strict as in some other Islamic states. The resorts do not make the same observance, and cater accordingly to the many different nationalities and cultures that holiday in the Maldives.
If arriving in the Maldives from the west, take the passage through the Kardiva Channel, passing to the north of Thoddoo as you passage the channel between North and South Malé atolls. Head around to the east side of North Malé Atoll where you’ll find the pilot boarding ground at Bodu Kalhi. Arrival from the east is a direct line passage to Bodu Kalhi. Pilotage into the inner anchorages is compulsory for all vessels over 120GT.
As you make your way around the south coast and navigate the congestion of Malé, make contact with the Maldives Port Authority, whose updated and comprehensive information is available on their website.
On our last arrival into Malé, the Port Authority did not send a pilot to board us, instead providing information on the position we were to anchor at for our inward clearance, which was the small craft anchorage just to the west of Hulhumalé. First anchorage was in 50 metres of depth.
Like many authorities, the Maldivian officials love their bureaucracy and arrive efficiently at the yacht soon after dropping anchor.
The entry formalities include officials from the Coast Guard, Immigration and the Health Department, and all want their process dealt with appropriately, in a friendly manner, and without any hassle for gifts or souvenirs. A refreshing change after a Suez and Red Sea passage.
Once cleared in to the Maldives, you will be free to travel throughout the archipelago using a daily reporting system, which is handled by your agent. A phone call is sufficient, advising where you are heading and your next overnight anchorage. After the inward clearance, the conventional heading is to an anchorage off Bodubados (Bandos Island), the well-known spot for yachts in waiting.
It is necessary to have an agent while in the Maldives to attend to the normal government formalities, cruising permits and taxes, as well to arrange for the importation of provisions, waste disposal, and other logistics.
I’ve found the main agents are all very good and provide a great service.
The Maldives apply a tourist tax on charter vessels. It is vital to note, however, that the authorities consider any yacht that has guests on board to be a charter, whether owner-occupied or actually on charter.
The agent can fully advise on the regulations, which is outlined at tourism.gov.mv/downloads/regulations/ regulation_governing_foreign_tourist_%20 vessels_cruising_and_harbouring_in_maldivian_ waters-english.pdf.
Unless in an emergency – and even then they’re difficult to find – there are no docks to tie up to in the Maldives, so be prepared to be anchored up for the entire stay.
Before heading to the Maldives, ensure that your yacht’s anchoring equipment has sufficient shackles of chain for the anchorages, which are for the most part in deep water (around 50 metres). Additionally, the soft, silty bottom can offer poor holding, so a reliance on a greater scope of chain is required.
Being a remote tourist destination, GSM services are big business in the Maldives. The two providers are Ooredoo and Dhiraagu, which is government-backed and so provides the best coverage. Both providers have offices at the airport and the purchasing of multiple prepaid SIM cards doesn’t require too much paperwork.
Onboard satellite TV is also well-serviced. All of the usual channels and local channels are beamed down on KU band C bands. The agents will have the decoders to access the channels.
Shore activities are fairly limited for crew. An excursion to Malé is worthwhile at least once to experience an island so densely populated and overrun by motor scooters. Apart from this, crew life in the Maldives is all beach, coral, surfing and sunshine.
The resorts in the Maldives are not so welcoming to yacht crew wanting some shore time, so this is a business that the resort on Bandos Island has taken on and do quite well. This all comes at a rather hefty fee of US$25 per crew member per day to visit during daylight hours and utilise the resort facilities. After 5 pm, there’s no charge to go ashore for a drink or meal, but all crew must register at reception.
The alternative is the Club Med Kani, also in the North Malé Atoll. The resort welcomes yacht crew at the fee of US$125 from 10 am to 5 pm, or US$140 from 6 pm to 12 pm. You can also purchase a day and night package for US$210, valid from 10 am to 12 pm. The fee essentially registers the crew as guests and, in true Club Med fashion, includes lunch and dinner with beverages, water sports, gymnasium, badminton and volleyball.
Most crew love the exposure to beautiful coral reefs and the fishing, diving and surfing that the Maldives has to offer.
Once on charter, the demands of the guests leave little time to worry about life ashore, and in between charters, there’s time for keeping up with the daily routines on board as well as to enjoy this tropical paradise.
Logistics need to be managed well. From provisioning to the removal of garbage, everything needs to be thought out well ahead of time. The markets in Malé offer limited provisioning and produce is flown in from all over the world, with Dubai now the hub with the best supply. The agents are quite adept with the process and it’s best to utilise their service for a small premium to ensure your chef ’s precious provisions arrive in good shape.
The removal of garbage is also arranged through agents. Collection by local garbage scows is the only way to offload it, and this comes at quite a premium so make sure rubbish is compressed down to minimum volumes, as paying for air at something like US$300/m3 really hurts. With a limited landmass and no landfill, waste management is something the Maldivians do well, and charge for it accordingly.
When out cruising, movement around the coral atolls and reefs is not too tricky. Like any navigation around coral, the spectacular array of deep blues through to turquoise indicate the outline of the reefs clearly, so navigation in daylight is quite straightforward. Obviously, with all the hazards underwater, night passages inside the lagoons are not recommended.
The Maldives Cruising Guide by Max Molteni is a useful resource for itinerary-planning. Yacht guests will generally be welcomed at the resorts, especially if they are considering dining or using the spa on the island. Just phone the resort in advance to request permission.
For the owner or charterer more interested in experiencing natural offerings than luxury resorts, this is easily achieved by heading away from North Malé Atoll and its bustling activity. Cruise down to South Malé Atoll and beyond: the further from Malé, the more untouched and unique the cruising, where you’ll find dive sites, turtles and whale sharks, fishing, surfing and sunshine all around you.