- FEATURED / Pacific Ocean
- 16 April 2021
I’m no stranger to the South Pacific. Having made five journeys across this body of water, my first in 2012, I’ve learned a lot about the South Pacific ocean, particularly its abundance of cruising spots. But I’ve also learned that a little planning can go a long way in heightening the experience.
Generally speaking, the supply of fuel in the South Pacific is good with a few notable exceptions. A lot of the South Pacific countries are now switching over to automotive oil where, in South America, it is still primarily Marine Gas Oil (MGO). Tier three and tier four engines may not handle the sulphur levels of the MGO so if you are cruising in the continent, it’s something important to consider.
Equally as important the remember is that fuelling in the South Pacific means fuelling in less-than-ideal conditions – in both the sea conditions and the available structures.
Fuelling is generally completed at a commercial dock or at anchorage via barge due since most of the fuel in the South Pacific is prioritised towards the commercial marine operators. This means that fuel suppliers aren’t as mindful of the multi-million-dollar paint job and are just as experienced in ensuring your lines don’t chaff as they are overseeing the larger fenders – which is not a lot.
Your crew will need to be prepared to watch lines, deploy larger-than-usual fenders and monitor them for extended periods as you fuel. It’s also worth having your crew brush up on commercial fuelling procedures, including fire watches, as well as how to take and test fuel samples before and after pumping.
Take the Panama Canal as an example. Smaller yachts, so less than 50 metres, are able to take on fuel at Flamenco Marina but a yacht at 50 metres or more will need to fuel at anchor in a commercial environment. The fuel barges pump at a high rate, but while fuelling, your crew need to remain alert to lines and fenders as the barge operators will not.
Naturally, this means having these pieces on board. Expect to double up ground tackles, dock lines and super-duty fenders as once you pass through the Panama Canal, the element of surge both in and around the fuelling destinations are prevalent throughout the South Pacific.
A centrifuge or fuel polishing system is essential – and not just for the South Pacific.
It’s wise to use your local agent for up-to-date information on any new fuelling procedures throughout the South Pacific. On the note of local agents, throughout my time cruising through the South Pacific, I’ve seen many move on due to a lack of yacht traffic, so best have that in the back of your mind.
The cost of fuel, as of 2019, was typically USD $4 per gallon or USD$1 per litre. Gasoline/petrol was easy to find and we had no issues fuelling the tenders. For the main yacht, I always use a fuel broker. Twenty years ago, I didn’t see the value in it so I have continued utilising shore support agents. Perhaps if you were taking enormous quantities, such as 25,000 gallons or over 95,000 litres, then a broker would be useful for the money transfers.
Once you’ve cleared the Panama Canal, most yachts head towards the Galápagos Islands. Whether it’s cruising or transiting, it’s essential for you to attain a cruising permit from your agent prior to departing Panama. The Galápagos are one of the most particular destinations in regards to requirements – most of which need to be arranged before you set off. You will need clean bottom and rat-free certificates, the former being extremely important.
When your yacht arrives at San Cristobel Island, it will be quickly met by Ecuadorian Immigration, Customs, Health and Agriculture representatives as well as a diver. If that diver finds as little as a single barnacle on your yacht, you’ll be sent back out to sea or to your last port of call.
But if your hull is clean and you’re prepared, the next step is submitting your voyage plan.
We have cruised the Galápagos Islands on many occasions and the experience never gets old.
This area is a diving and snorkelling paradise with plenty of potential for land-based activities. The longest cruise we undertook on Dorothea III was a three-month voyage, but the average is around a month to six weeks. I do believe this area is worthy of multiple visits.
In terms of amenities, Puerto Ayora is the closest thing you’ll find to a main town and it’s where you’ll find most of the provisions you’ll need. The best fuelling station is at Baltra Island, north of Santa Cruz. If you’re taking on fuel before departure, it will be duty-free, so the yacht will need to leave Ecuadorian waters within 12 hours of fuelling. Thus, most yachts depart from Baltra Island.
A truth that I didn’t expect was how advanced and high-quality the fuel is in Ecuador. The fuel at Baltra Island was biofuel from a refinery on the mainland.
It’s about 3200 nautical miles from the Galápagos Islands to Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas Islands. It’s worth having a large contingency left once you reach Nuku Hiva because the fuelling stations in these areas can be challenging to get around. Personally, I always arrange the fuel with my agent in Papeete prior so it’s there when we arrive.
The fuel pier is the only place on the island where anyone can get fuel and, as it is exposed to southerly and southwesterly swell, the process can take days. Thus, you’ll need a big contingency.
We’ve had situations where the fuel did not arrive before us, where the weather prevented us from fuelling and where the demand for the island’s only gas station meant we were limited to two- to three-hour stints.
Three hours is also about the time limit crew can monitor lines, fenders and a fuel hose.
For those heading to Tuamotos, there’s practically no fuel. Most in this direction head to Papeete where the marina or the downtown port offer good fuelling. The fuel is also high-quality because it arrives from Singapore and sometimes even New Zealand. As an observation, as remote as French Polynesia, Papeete and Nuku Hiva are, they are also well organised with stable governments and proper systems in place. Not all locations in the South Pacific, even if they are closer mainlands, are that well-serviced.
For instance, Tonga has to be one of the most logistically challenging places in the South Pacific. I’ve found some things are almost impossible to arrange and for those that are, it’s difficult to pay. There are shore support agents that do try to alleviate this but without consistent yacht traffic to support them, it’s not always their sole focus. We’ve been to Tonga several times and have developed local relationships that have allowed for easier logistics and provisioning.
In Fiji, Marina Denarau offers slip fuelling with large quantities available and I have been able to organise same-day fuel and go services with our local agent.
From September through to November, it’s the high season for cruising this area with the conditions for heading eastward towards Australia or New Zealand being few and far between.
Having a same-day fuel service at Marina Denarau is invaluable when you need to act on a favourable weather window and head toward the Great Southern Land.
If I had to name one of my favourite destinations in this area, it would be Vanuatu. The island group has seen its fair share of bad luck, often hit with several category five tropical storms, but this is a destination not to be missed. As a result, I have found Espiritu Santo, which is the largest island in the Vanuatu archipelago, and Efate, located in the centre, the best places to fuel and the best infrastructure in the country.